Your heart might melt into a mush every time your cute little pup cocks his head, but don’t let that get in the way of your establishing who the master is. Go gooey eyed too frequently and you are likely to pay with your carpets and sandals, which it will most merrily chew through. Treat your pup the way you would treat a little kid, setting it strict boundaries and letting it know what goes and what most definitely doesn’t. Establish gestures like pointing etc. which will give the dog a cue to act in a certain way.

You might not think it possible but dogs, like your kids, can tell when you mean business, slacken up a bit with them and they’ll know you can be taken for a ride. Interestingly enough they also have this instinct for intonation; be strict when you want him to stay put at the yard, but be enthusiastic when you are asking him if he would like to go for a walk. It’s funny how you’ll see your own mood reflected in his responses. This is the primary step for you to establish the kind of communication with your dog which will allow you to calm him or set him up for work with a single word.

One of the main methods of training your dog is to keep a certain consistency in your approach towards him. Keep your intonations, gestures and words for expressing dissatisfaction the same every time, so that he gets used to the idea easily. A young pup who grows up with a certain set of commands will respond to them more promptly than one who is frequently confused by conflicting orders. The more consistent your commands are, the better trained your dog is, the better trained your dog is the greater your confidence in him regarding his obedience to you. A few other ways of establishing consistency are to use the same door when taking your doggie out for a walk, give him the same kind of pat every night before retiring for the day, so that he knows exactly what time it is.

Little things like these will help you predict your dog’s behavior more accurately. Most importantly, however, remember to shower your love and affection on the little one, continue your training through little games which he might enjoy, and remember to treat him every time he does a task well, after all like a child it too needs to be appreciated and given its bit of fun.

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In this article, we shall discuss a variety of reinforcement methods used in animal training. We shall endeavor to clearly point out the pros and cons of each type and also discuss their appropriateness for given situations. Hopefully this will give you, the reader, the knowledge needed to make an educated decision on how to reward or correct your pets’ behavior. To begin, let’s improve our understanding of positive reinforcement.

Positive Reinforcement, for the purposes of this article, refers to any form of training that is based on rewards rather than punishment. This training would be the type witnessed in many zoos where a trained animal is rewarded with some treat, such as a morsel of food, for a job well done. Positive reinforcement can also refer to petting the animal or verbal praises. Other examples of positive reinforcement would be play time, such as a rousing game of fetch or playing chase.

Negative Reinforcement is the opposite of positive reinforcement. This involves a punishment for less than favorable performances and usually implies some kind of fear, pain or discomfort for the animal being trained. Training aids such as electrical shock collars or choke chains would fall under this category. Also in this category, you would find such things as crate training and chemical compounds, such as Bitter Apple and Cayenne Pepper. This is the kind of training exhibited in the old time circus shows displaying lion tamers and whips to keep the animals in submission.

While both types of reinforcement have their place, they also have limits and unacceptable uses. To beat a dog or inflict serious physical injury to the animal in the name of training is morally unacceptable and inexcusable, not to mention illegal in most areas. By the same token, allowing a dog to become a danger to others by never using any form of punishment is also unacceptable. An equal balance must be achieved for proper training of your pet or you run the risk of owning a maladjusted animal which will be either overly aggressive or fearful and nervous. If error is to be made in either direction, fall to the safer side of too much positive reinforcement, as this is much easier to correct.

Positive reinforcement does much for the relationship of the pet to its master and should be given any time the pet demonstrates a correct behavior at an appropriate time. Your pet will sense your pleasure in its performances and will seek to repeat them more often in the future. A kind word or a small treat goes a very long way towards your dog seeing you as a leader. Being pack animals, dogs will pick an Alpha or leader to the pack and will follow readily with a sole desire to please. To use positive reinforcement effectively, find what motivates your dog. Perhaps it is food or toys, playtime or even verbal praise. Whatever the case may be, use this motivation to achieve results with your pet. Consistently reward the pet in immediate response to the desired behavior. Dogs are creatures that thrive on instant gratification. In other words, reward them immediately for an action and they are far more likely to repeat it.

Negative reinforcement also has its place in training your dog, albeit a much smaller place. If your dog exhibits an undesirable behavior such as chewing on your power cords for your laptop or soiling the floor, then action must be taken to correct this. Behaviors such as chewing power cords could be dangerous to the animal and allowing this to continue could be harmful to your pets’ health as well as costly for you, in both repair bills and veterinary visits. Just like a child, sometimes a pup needs correction or a time out. A little time in the kennel or a light but convincing tap on the nose will help your pet to understand that these behaviors are not going to continue. (A note from the author: While a light swat to correct a dangerous situation such as cord chewing is acceptable, beating or injuring your pet is not. Please be a responsible pet owner and if you have had a bad day, don’t take it out on the dog.)

Again it should be remembered that immediate and consistent action is the key in training using both methods of reinforcement. If you wait too long before correcting or rewarding a behavior, all impact of the message will be lost. Observing these basics, you can clearly see that both methods are useful to trainers and have their special niches.

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Boxer dog training consists of training them up to become guard dogs, this is their main profession if you like. People who don’t know boxers tend to assume that they are naturally aggressive when they are in fact the opposite and couldn’t be more playful than any other dog! Because of their good stature and aggressive look, people are automatically assuming this dog could do more harm than good. If your boxer isn’t trained properly then he just might.

Because of their intelligence Boxers can be very stubborn but when it comes to training a boxer it can be very helpful. Owners must remember that there will be times when you ask him to do something and he’s going to look you in the face and basically tell you where to go, he knows he is supposed to do what you are telling him but he decides he can’t be bothered and doesn’t. The main thing you have to remember in these circumstances is to be patient. From as early as 6 weeks old you should start your boxer dog training as this will help him when he grows up, socialize him, play with him and teach him, but do it in an exciting way and he is more likely to listen.

The main aspect of training for a boxer is socialization. Boxers can be very friendly dogs but they need to be trained to become one. They need to get accustomed to other dogs and people. The best way to do this is training classes. That way your boxer will be trained alongside other dogs.

When your boxer reaches 13-16 weeks old it’s time for some serious boxer dog training, this is the stage where he is going to test for dominance, he will nip and try to show you that he is the more dominant one, mainly by not listening to you. You have to be a strong leader at this time, you must show him that him acting like that will not be tolerated no matter what!

Boxers are genuinely a lovable family dog and would make a proud pet for anyone, they are dogs that prefer to sit on you lap for a cuddle than anything else. Train your boxer early with some serious boxer dog training and you can be assured you will have a stunning, loyal family friend!

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So how do we handle this situation?  Once again, we want to be sure our young charge is healthy to begin, so off to the vets office if you haven’t been recently.  There is a medical condition that can cause chewing in pups aside from the normal tendencies they have of chewing to explore their world.  This illness is called Pica and causes your pet to eat non-food items in an attempt to deal with nausea.  So please visit your veterinarian and make sure your animal has a clean bill of health.

The next step involves understanding that, while chewing is a normal and healthy part of any pup’s development, it has acceptable and unacceptable outlets.  Puppies learn about their world thru chewing much the same as human children.  They use their senses to explore the new world, which lies before them and their tactile sense, and sense of taste is brought into play as they chew on various objects.  Much like human children, pups also need our protection from the dangers that lurk in their explorations.  Electrical cords, needles, poisonous houseplants and household chemicals, even chocolate, all pose very real threats to your pet.  It is your duty to protect the animal from these dangers.

Consistent training with the “NO” command can do this.  No is a word your dog should learn early and respond to instantly.  This one word has saved many dogs from many horrible fates.  The pup is trained by repeatedly using the “NO” command every time a situation occurs.  If you pet is caught chewing on your shoes, say “NO” in an affirmative tone and take the item from the animal.  Do not let it become a game of tug-o-war.  Rather, remove the item quickly or back up your “NO” with a spray from a water bottle, a loud clapping of the hands or a light but convincing tap on the nose.  This little diversion is usually enough to make a dog lose interest in whatever they may have been chewing on.  Also, do not give chase to an animal chewing on an undesirable selection of chew toy.  The will interpret this action to be a game and they will be most happy to play for hours on end.  Instead, calmly work your way towards the animal and then remove the object.   For items that are habitually mistreated, a chemical additive such as Bitter Apple may be in order to impart a foul taste to the item and make it unpalatable for the animal to chew on.  Crate Training is also effective to stop chewing behavior and we shall discuss this course at length in later articles.

You do not want to completely destroy your dogs urge to chew however as this habit is healthy for them when exercised correctly.  Instead, offer them suitable objects for their chewing pleasure.  Perhaps a dog toy (For quieter households, remove any squeakers from the toy. )   Rope toys and crunchy dog biscuits provide good outlets for a dog’s destructive behavior and also help to keep up the oral hygiene of your pet.

Also be aware that all animals are different.  Your dog may react differently than another dog in a given situation.  Some dogs develop aggressive stances upon attempts to remove an object from their possession.  If your dog becomes aggressive and territorial, then professional assistance is highly recommended to avoid further problems or biting.

With these simple suggestions, you can insure your pups’ good health and the well being of your book collection.  You might even find the time to spend some quality time reading Cujo again with your new best friend.

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The phrase destructive chewing may sound redundant, because – by its very nature! – all chewing is destructive. Your dog has strong jaws full of sharp, pointy teeth: just about anything she starts to chew on is probably going to show the effects of it inside of a minute. So just to clarify, when I use the phrase “destructive chewing”, I’m referring to inappropriate chewing: the kind of chewing that’s focused on your own possessions and household items, instead of on your dog’s own designated toys and chews.

The three main reasons why dogs chew:

• Most dogs have a natural desire to chew. It’s fun, it passes the time, and it’s a self-rewarding, self-reinforcing activity (for example, if she’s chewing on something that tastes good.)
• Chewing provides a nervous, bored, or lonely dog with an outlet for her emotions. To an anxious dog, the repetitive act of chewing is soothing – it’s the doggie equivalent of comfort food.
• Underexercised dogs often use chewing as a way of burning up nervous energy and giving themselves something to do.

How to prevent destructive chewing

Dogs are perfectly capable of learning not to chew your stuff – you just have to put in a little effort first, that’s all.

#1

Take control of the situation: manage your own possessions. Your first step should be to dog-proof your home. Even if you have the best-behaved dog in the world, there’s still no reason to test her self-control – after all, dogs explore the world with their mouths.

Dog-proofing your home means taking whatever you don’t want to end up in her mouth, and making it unavailable. Consider her size and agility when deciding whether something’s out of reach: can she jump? Can she climb, or leap onto something else to reach the desired object? How tall is she when standing on her back legs?

Common targets in the home include books, eyewear, clothing, shoes, garbage, and small crunchy appliances like cameras, cell phones, and remote controls.

It should go without saying that all food needs to be put securely away: don’t leave snacks on low tables (or even countertops – you’d be surprised how acrobatic she can be when there’s food at stake!), put all food into containers or the pantry. Rinse your dirty plates clean of any food scraps before leaving them by the sink.

#2

Prevent her from learning the joys of illegal chewing. The more times she manages to snatch a jawful of a forbidden substance – a chair-leg, a pillow, a running shoe – the more readily she’ll target those items in future. If you can prevent her from chewing your stuff in the first place, it’s a lot easier for her to understand what you expect of her. Practically speaking, this means confining her in a dog-proofed area until you’re confident of her understanding of the house rules.

#3

Don’t set her up for failure by blurring the boundaries between her stuff (OK to chew) and your stuff (not OK to chew). Don’t offer your dog cast-off clothes, shoes, or towels to chew and play with: realistically, you can’t possibly expect her to be able to tell the difference between your current shoes and the one she’s got in her mouth that you gave her five minutes ago.

#4

Provide her with lots of tasty alternatives to your stuff. If her environment is relatively barren of attractive, appropriate chewing objects, you can hardly blame her for targeting your possessions. Remember, most dogs need to chew; if she’s an adolescent (under three years) or a puppy (under one year), her needs will be even more pronounced. Go on a toy and chew shopping spree, then give her two or three to play with at a time. Rotating the available toys every few days will keep things novel and interesting for her.

#5

Spend lots of time in active supervision. Yes, it might be easier for you to just keep her penned up in her crate, run, or the yard – but that’s boring and horrible for her, and hardly much fun for you either (if you wanted a pet that you don’t need to interact with, you’d have got a goldfish, right?) She can’t learn what you expect of her if she’s spending all her time boxed up in the dog-proof zone: she needs the opportunity to explore the boundaries of your expectations, so she can understand what’s appropriate and what’s not.

#6

When you catch her chewing something inappropriate, interrupt her by making a loud noise: clap your hands or make an “Ah-ah-aaaah!” noise. Then, immediately hand her a tasty and dog-appropriate alternative (a rawhide bone or other chew toy); as soon as her jaws close around it, praise her lavishly. There is no better way to get your dog to understand that chewing “her” toys equals praise from you, but everything else equals trouble.

Maintain a productive attitude

Above all, remember to keep your expectations realistic. You’re not perfect, and neither is your dog: there’s likely to be at least one incident where a cherished item is damaged by her curiosity.

Particularly in the early stages of your relationship, she’s still learning the ropes: it’ll take awhile before she’s completely reliable (and even then, if she’s left by herself for too long or feels neglected, she may choose your stuff over hers to occupy her time and jaws with.) Remember to give her time to learn the rules, and plenty of ‘you-time’ to help her learn faster – and don’t forget to take precautions and keep things out of reach until she’s got the hang of the chewing rules!

For more information on dog training techniques and how to deal with problem dog behavior (like chewing), check out SitStayFetch. It’s the complete manual for dog ownership and is designed to fast-track your dog’s learning.

You can visit the SitStayFetch site by clicking HERE.

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Dog Meet Camera, Camera Meet Dog

Well there is always a first step and here, the first step is pretty much simple, introduce the dog to the camera. A lot of dogs are scared of what they don’t know. Put the camera lower than the dog’s eye level and have the dog sniff the camera. In that way he’ll know that what you are about to do, it will help you ease some tensions or whatever that comes in the photo shoot. Always get the dog comfortable on the shoot, so getting the dog familiar with the camera is a good first step for sure.

Be One with the Dog

Ok, once the dog gets introduced to the camera, go and sit in the spot that you want the dog to sit in, even if it’s on the floor. We have talked about getting the dog comfortable with its surroundings, you need to show the dog that you have no bad intentions, so level with them and mingle a little, in that way they’ll see that you only want to get their pictures and not harm them in any way.

Spotting the Dog

Ok, to place the dog in a position where you want the picture to be taken your next step is call the dog in front of the spot that you want him in and while you are sitting in the spot, make the dog comfortable. Have him sit down, scratch him behind the ears and on his neck and stroke his back. In that way you will get the dog’s trust and at the same time you can have the dog on the spot that you want him to be. If the dog is comfortable in the position you want them to be, it is pretty much easy to move from there.

Trick or Treat, Dog

Now, giving a treat to a dog is pretty much helpful if you want to get the best results. Especially when you need something from them you need to give something to them. Put a dog treat in the palm of your hand and close your hand around it. Have the dog sniff your hand so he knows it’s in your hand. Use the hand that you are not pressing the camera button with. So that you can direct the dog with it and have your shot is in perfect shape. And then snap a shot and there you have it your own dog picture with ease. No need for tricks or whatever. You got them where you want them to be.

by Jron Magcale
http://www.anamigo.com

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